So what happened after I got to Bogotá? What are the differences between Ecuador and Colombia? This blog concludesmy series of travel reports in Colombia. Here you go!

On Sunday I get up early in Bogotá and walk around the Candelaria, the old colonial part of Bogota. It's pretty with small streets and colorful buildings. There's apperently a lot going on in town. Some of the main roads have been closed allowing recreational cyclists to bike around. It's an impressive and wonderful sight.

At 10:30 I go to the office of Bogota Biking Tours. I guy named Mike shows us around Bogota for about 4 hours. It's very interesting to bike through areas, some of which are usually considered as dangerous. Although Colombia has a conservative government, some laws are very progressive and resemble liberal Dutch laws. For example, in Colombia euthanasia is legal, as wel as abortion (in some cases though), prostitution (in assigned areas). Possession of drugs used to be legal but is now considered illegal.

The next day I decide to visit the salt mines in a town names Zipaquirá, which is about an hour away from Bogotá. This salt mine is still operational, but some parts have now been transformed into an underground cathedral. It's very impressive to see this mixture of engineering and religion in such a weird atmosphere. The guide shows us around the impressive underground area.We continue with another guide to do the mining tour. For obvious purposed, we have to wear helmets. Some of the parts we're not allowed to use our lights, and by using our hands we can navigate through the dark mine. We're shown around through the deeper sections. I excavate my own parts of salt and the guide shows us a little explosion. Start feeling like areal rock raider!Though he didn't tell us that the sound of the explosion was amplified by a pair of speakers, so he freaked the hell out of us.

After the beautiful mine we visit the beautiful centre of Zipaquirá and have lunch there. It's time to call it a day and head back to the ever congested city of Bogota. I get onto the metrobus, bus because it's so crowded I kind of get confused and lost.

On my final day in Bogota I visit the Gold Museum, which has a fine collection of traditional gold ornaments. After my brief visit I head the bus terminal to take a bus south to Calí where I spend two days. Calí is a hot city full of partying and salsa. Though there's a lot going on, the atmosphere to me seems a bit rough. The next day I decide to move on to Popayán, further south.Thisis a very pretty colonial town in the southern Cauca district. It directly reminds me of Cuenca: old colonial bulidings, cobblestone streets and tranquil squares. The first foreigner I meet here is an American guy who turns out to be an English teacher here. Any more resemblances needed? I spend two days in Popayán, before I move on. Together with a Spanish guy called Candido I travel to the Colombian - Ecuadorean border through the southern highlands of Colombia. The landscape is very spectacular. This route is highly recommended not to travel at night, because the guerrillas are still active in this region. Nevertheless, the bus driverselects a movie about the American war on drugs: a two-hour movie of clashes between US military, Colombian military and las FARC. Honestly I don't know what the drivers intentions were, but it is quite confronting to watch a war movie about the region you're actually just driving through. But we finally arrive in Ipiales, the border town, where we have to changes buses and take a small bus that drops us off at the border.

The border crossing is very simple. There seems to be quite some traffic, but we don't have to wait very long. The Colombian officer is very friendly, and relaxed. He even seems to make somejokes: 'where are you going sir?' Ihonestly give him my answer:'Por Ecuador, señor', but can't suppress my smile.He quickly gives us our exit stamps. Then we walk across the bridge to the other side, to enter Ecuador. It's directly evident that business is more formal here: migration police is dressed upin military uniforms, not acting funny at all. The man takes a careful look at the pretty collection of Ecuadorean stampsI've collected and he asks me for my censo, which I'm happy to present this time. Shown are huge signs that warn people that commit crimes like sexual abuse of childrencan expect high punishmentsand there is a banner that clearly shows all the documents required to either enter or leave Ecuador. I quickly take a picture of the last, as I might need this information one day again. We get our stamps and enter Ecuador by another small bus to the border town Tulcan. From here we head Otavalo, a very nice town in the northern Ecuadorean Andes.

Though many similarities do exist between Ecuador in Colombia, the evident difference between the population directly becomes clear at my arrival in Ecuador. Whereas most people in Colombia are from European descendance, in Ecuador the vast majoritiy consists of indigenous. Especially in Otavalo, where at least 90% of the peopleconsists ofdark-colored indigenous. In Otavalo, I visit the traditional Saturday cloth, artisan and food market which spreads out over the whole town. It´s worth another visit, for sure!

Now the ultimate question everybody keeps asking: is Colombia safe to travel? The answer isn't that simple though. In general, I'd say yes. The big cities and main routes, especially at day, are fairly safe to travel. However, it is essential -like in any south American country- to be conscious and aware and to inquire frequentlywith locals as the situation in Colombia may vary daily. While walking the streets of Bogotá the drugs war has clearly left its traces and the tension in the southern cities can still be felt very clearly today, where paramilitaries and guerrillas are stillclashing.All the children-much more than in Ecuador- that clamped me in Medellín are an evident proof of the poverty that is still being suffered from in this beautiful country. About one third of the people today is still affected by the consequences of the armed conflict that is going on. On the other hand, the government and omnipresent military have mostlypushed back the guerrillas away from the big cities, so that these can now be considered relatively safe to travel. This has paved the way for tourists to enjoy Colombia and to see what itproudlyhas to offer: salsa, beautiful landscapes, delicious coffee and very friendly people. The gratitude of the Colombians proves an abundant reward for visiting their country.The drug wars and guerrilla violence have scarred and devastated the country, buthaven't deprived the citizens' faith and hope. If you ever get the chance to visit this amazing country: do it!You'll be highly amazed and rewarded. Each foreigner that takes the leap to visit Colombiawill have the privilege to enjoy its beauty, and each tourist to go will pave the way for two others to come. In the end, it willstrengthenthe hope and belief of Colombians in a better future.